And so it began early, around 6:45, when our host, Mark, nudged me on the floor of his shed and said to get up, the ferry was coming soon. I knew I had plenty of time but I got up anyway. Sam and I packed up, out of the rain and wind that was beginning to build. It seemed it would be a choppy ride. When we were all set, we said goodbye to our quiet host and rode the few blocks to the terminal, but not before Mark gave us each a package of snacks he got from the expired store. Still good calories for bike touring.
As we approached the terminal, an ominous black ploom rose from the waterfront.
And there she stood, the SS Badger. Not your average ferry. In fact it was a historic car ferry, one left from the heydey of car gerries across lake Michigan in the 1950's. Being so, it was still a coal burning ship... explaining the dirty black cloud that was slowly filling the downtown of ludington with smog.
We boarded without much trouble, Sam asking "too late to buy a ticket?" With the response from the dockman "Hell, you're a bike, we'll strap you to the roof." They didn't actually but let us aboard with several hundred other passengers.
The boat was like a little Queen Mary. Complete with dining area, movie lounge, observation deck, museum, private cabins, children's playground, live music and bingo, it felt like a cheap cruise that lasted but 4 hours. A bit of a time warp as we passed the time zone entering Wisconsin waters.
I sat, chewing dried fruit on the chilly observarion deck for most of the launch, watching Michigan fade into the inland sea.
After the initial rush on the cafe, I lingered and eaited until just before they started to thriw things out, anf asked "yall still open?" They said, "go for it, it's on the house. Just getting thrown out anyhow." So I got a big ole midwestern breakfast of eggs, ham, biscuts and gravy for free. A very satisfying feast.
Laster I sat in the museum and read a good couple chapters in my book while resting my legs, relishing in the sensation of the movement of my body without having to pedal.
Finally we approached Manitowac, an obvious Indian name with no other trace of its origins in the town. Factories hovered above the water among several large posters for Budweiser, and the USA, I guess. Hard to tell them apart.
Sam and I hit the road soon after, but not before gettinf questioned by other cyclists on board. Had to explain at least three times we were we're coming from or going to the same place, and yet both from Seattle... A strong wind from the Northwest slowed us, though we only had 40 miles to Green Bay, so we took our time. On the flat horizon, we could watch the rain clouds roll in, usually with enough time to take cover somewhere.
Meanwhile, Breezey was making friends, shown here with sam's steed, Brother Trucker.
Later on we hopped on another raip to trail that took us clear to Denmark... Wisconsin. Every so often we had to take cover from the rain clouds, which cleared out as fast as they came in, and were pretty fun to try and ride out.
Around quarter after six, we found ourselves at Carl and Sue's place, hosts that Sam had found the day or two before. We set up in thier basement, and assuming our hunger (which they were right about) we all went out to the Titletown brewery down by the Fox River in Green Bay. Sam and I both crushed mac and cheese pizzas (a wisconsin thing?) and made it home for a restful sleep.





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