Day 17

Today started like this:

I slept a little more and in the morning, tried to do as much as I could in the tent before facing the rain.

Packed up, said goodbye to my curtious neighbors and camp host, and rode out expected one if those dreary days downing my full rain suit, the water and crud gettinf flung up by my tires into my face and all iver my gears until the chains runs like a pepper grinder and I wince with every turn of the peddals. But within minutes the clouds cleared and the sun came out, anf soon it was another hot and humid day.

Turned out to be one of the most enjoyable rides I've had since new york. Winding roads through shady forest with lakes hidden around every corner.

The day was shorter in miles than most, only about 47 to Ludington. But I took my time and enjoyed the ride like this sign told me to.

This weekend happened to be the Gus Macker in Ludington- the largest 3 on 3 basketball tournament in the US. The town of Ludington (only 8,000 to begin with) grew to 14,000 overnight, meaning all the campgrounds were full. Luckily I found a host with a backyard and shed just a few blocks from downtown. I gave him a call and he said I was welcome though there was another cyclist who'd already called dibs on the shed for the night. I said fine, I'd be glad to have the company. 

On my way into town I stopped at a bike store. I'd been noticing that my grip tape on the handlebars and been sliding all around, meaning my palms were pressing on the bare metal most of the time, and I've begun to loose feeling in my pinkies (not a good sign). So I rolled in, asked if they could help me, and sure enough they gave be a plush new wrap, and for no charge at all. Another blessing from fellow cyclists and caring humans.

He sent me next door to the health food store, where I scored some tasty homemade granola. I guess that park ranger I talked to in Bay City was right, western Michigan is the California of the Mid-West. 

Mark, my host for the night, picked me out right of the street: "You must be Finley." I guess my grunginess and the bike gave me away pretty easy. He pointed me to his place and I set up camp in the yard to dry stuff out. Made some potatoes and was feeling ready for a nap when Mark said my companion for the night was at a brewery downtown if I wanted to join him. So I did, and whudduya know but the guy's from Seattle and headed out goin west on the same boat tomorrow. A dumpster-diving doctorate student and an all around swell guy, we decided we'd ride together at least to Green Bay. And he studies Ecological economics, so we'll have lots to talk about. 

Seemed like a storm was rolling in, so I packed up for the early morning and slept on the floor of the shed under Sam's cot, and dreampt of rain.